As you drive to the Sinclairs Retreat Dooars at Chalsa Hilltop, the Teesta flows quietly by the side of the road. It is a hilly terrain, but here the curves are gentle -not the nail-biting hairpin bends one would encounter on the way to Darjeeling. As we drive, leaves flutter silently to the ground and then, right in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by tea gardens, we spy a clutch of cottages that are spread all over a 2O-acre property. Situated atop the Chalsa hill and overlooking the Do oars valley (Dooars is derived from the word 'doors' , and the region forms the gateway to the hill stations of North Bengal and Bhutan), this haven claims to be eastern India's largest luxury resort .

Ideally located (Bhutan, Sikkim and Darjeeling are just hours away by car),the retreat is as yet undiscovered by the media."However,we get international travellers and corporate groups through the internet." says Navin Suchanti, director of the Sinclairs group.

The retreat has been conceived as an eco- friendly destination, and there is considerable emphasis on things like organic farming. "The few plastic objects at the retreat will be replaced soon," promises Suchanti. Orchards have been planted, and the trees are expected to bear fruit within a few years. The vegetable garden is already doing well, and all
the vegetables we ate during our stay here

This eight-and-a-half crore project was launched in 1996 and developed by the Bombay-based firm of architects, Gherzi Eastern ; Limited. The cottages with 72 well appointed rooms arecomfortable, rather than luxurious. The wood used for the doors is rubberwood from Kerala, while the tiled flooring is 'softened' with sturdy carpets. The rooms have been so designed that they seem to blend into the landscape. They spread out

in semi-circular fashion from the hub formed by the reception area, the dining room, the banquet hall and the health club. There is provision for a whole host of games like billiards, tennis, badminton, even croquet! Golf enthusiasts can take advantage of a tie-up with the local Chalsa golf club for a fee. We would caution you against the jogging track, which at the moment is so rough, that it's quite likely to lead to an injury. The card room and library would appeal to less energetic guests, while the 2,400 sq. ft. area banquet hall makes the resort a good conference destination.

There is also a swimming-pool, a gymnasium and a complete naturopathy cen- tre offering a variety of de-stressing and revitalising treatments which include the shirodhara oil massage of Kerala, mud baths and aromatherapy. There is also a large variety of weight reduction programmes. Three trained naturopaths live on the complex. The treatments are holistic, focusing on both body and mind. However, those who wish to de-stress in more conventional ways, can lift their

Every room at the retreat has been constructed to give a magnificent view of the mountains. On a clear day, one can see the snow- capped peaks!The dining- room has glass windows on either side; side overlooks a garden,

The highlight (or is it the 'lowlight'?) of the evening is the fabulous sunset that can be viewed to the delightful (albeit often cacophonous) accompaniment of birdsong.There are TV sets in every room with satelite conections, but we didn't switch the idiot box on at all; taking time off, instead, to read a couple of books from the in-house library. The choice is limited, but we found a book of Burmese folk tales rather absorbing. Telephones have also been provided in every room, but the connection to Calcutta is tenuous at best. If you decide to go Chalsa, it's best to treat it as a break, away from the mundane concerns and connections of the city

As evening turns to night , the spirit is rejuvenated by the pitch darkness that falls. If there are diners in the dining- room, the lights of the chandeliers twinkle enticingly, otherwise, the darkness is complete. If one had to select one restorative quality of the retreat, most people would probably pick the greenery all around -the velvet green lawns, the profusion of flowers and the rustling of the trees. However, we would unanimously vote for the darkness of the night -absolute, tranquil and a little mysterious.